Thursday, April 9, 2009

Ireland (Killarney)

We left Kinsale after a filling full Irish Breakfast and are off to spend 2 days in Killarney! The drive through the country side was nice, but the closer we got to Killarney, the worse the weather got. Our streak of perfect gorgeous weather was about to be over. We had booked a hike and realized we had to cancel because; A. it was raining and B. there was no way we would make it in time to leave with the group. So I called and canceled and was a bit bummed for the rest of the ride. Boo, being the "half-glass-full" type that he is, said we could just flip flop the events we planned during our 2 day stay in Killarney. So we decided to explore the Dingle Peninsula today. http://www.dingle-peninsula.ie/. I was still sulking, b/c I had wanted to go on a hike, but as soon as we started driving into Dingle, my mood changed. The weather had cleared up in this area and you could see the views of the Ring of Kerry on the left with just the rugged ocean separating these two peninsulas. We stopped at Inch Beach and just took in the views. Never had I seen such a huge crescent moon shaped beach with no one on it. We headed on and took a detour to see and old Irish Castle that was built on a cliff. The drive into mountainous Dingletown was impressive with sheep dotting the farmlands, but the loop drive around Slea Head, the tip of the peninsula, was breathe taking. Wow... I pulled out my Rick Steve's guide book and read about the sights along the Kilometer markers (mile markers). We stopped at least 1/2 a dozen times to take photos of the Blasket Islands, the staggering cliffs, and the views. There were sheep sprinkled all through out this area too. Close to the end of Slea Head loop we took another detour to this monastic ruin that dates back to 5 A.D. Talk about old. We were able to touch these old stone markers. It was just so neat to be around this history. I don't think I've even seen anything this old, and to know that it had been in this exact spot for so long, left me speechless. We finished up our tour of Dingle by stopping into Dingle town for a picnic lunch on the waterfront. It was a bit chilly/windy to be hanging out in the harbor but I wanted to get a good feel of this place. We snacked on authentic Irish potato cakes. Oh, by the way, Boo likes to call picnics "Hobo'n it" like some homeless hobo sitting along the harbor eating out of a paper bag. He is so pampered sometimes. We left Dingletown by taking Connors pass. Talk about a scary road! Winding down the snow capped mountains on a road so narrow that it has small nooks you can park in to let oncoming traffic go by, b/c there is no room for two cars! It was so terrifying (in a fun way) that I couldn't look out of my window as we drove down this passage way.
What a perfect day to explore Dingle. I'm glad it rained in Killarney now. We rolled back in to Killarney and checked into our B&B, the Muckross Stables. We showered/changed and headed for downtown Killarney( http://www.killarney.ie/) to explore. This town was pretty lively. We walked around a bit, ducked into some shops and decided to try O'connors Pub for dinner and some pints. The pub was uneventful, but downtown was pretty neat. At one point, we were walking and all of the sudden a shower of tiny hail starts falling. Boo and I run under cover of a shop and in an instant the hail stopped. We just looked at each other and were like "what was that?" We left downtown and decided to stop at Molly Darcy's Pub for one pint. It's a pub that's down the street from our B&B. Wow, the interior of this pub made you feel like you were back in medieval times. No offense to our bartender, because he was a nice guy, but he seriously looked like the hobbit Merry or Pippin from the Lord of the Rings. No joke. I got a pint of 1/2 pint of Smithwicks and Boo got a whole pint of Guinness that I had to help him finish. We decided that after our hike tomorrow, we would come back here for dinner. So off to our B&B we went. It was down a quiet street and tucked into the Killarney National Park, making for a restful night.

The next morning we had a full Irish breakfast with an amazing view. We looked out onto the owners expansive property and their horses were out grazing on it. They had a playful border collie named Jack who I fed through the window. :) After a serene breakfast, we left to find our outfitter for our hike of the Gap of Dunloe in the Killarney National Park. (http://www.killarney.ac/gdtour.htmlc/gdtour.html). We find them, and get dropped off at Kate Kearney's cottage. Which is a souvenir shop/pub/cafe all in one. We decide to hire a jaunting cart to take us to Lord Brandon's cottage to wait for the boats to take us across to Ross Castle. Well, Boo negotiates a price and we are off with Craig (the horse) and her jaunting cart bouncing us along the 7 mile hike through the Gap of Duloe. At one point Boo and I jump out of the cart, do some real hiking, and just admire the jaw dropping views. What a beautiful day this was, and the weather was perfect, not a rain cloud in sight. We passed through stone bridges, walked along lakes, and cut through huge mountains until we reach our Lord Brandon's Cabin. We walk over a stone bridge and are greeted by a silly mule who looks like he has his head stuck through the wire fence, but really he is just begging to be petted. Boo obliges him and I snap some photos of it. hahaha! We go thru a little wrought iron gate and walk down to Lord Brandon's cabin, which is just a small cafe. We explore the tower ruins that was once the real Lord Brandon's hunting cabin. Since we are "hobo'n it" We find a nice grassy hill (very Lord of The Rings Shire like) and have a nice picnic then take a short nap in the warm sunshine. An hour later we wake up and are being flagged down by a tall, smiling Irishman. We walk down to the dock and board a boat with about 8 other people and start the second half of our tour. The 3 lake tour to Ross Castle.

Our guide is a witty man, with plenty of stories and jokes. Like, at one point we say a kayaker on the lake and he goes, "Oh look, it's the Irish Navy." He tells us the history of this Park and the history of each of the lakes and sprinkles in some leprechaun stories to make it interesting. The scenery from the lake was spectacular. At one point we actually get out of the boat and explore a bit. When we get back in, he tells us we are going into our third lake. He tells the passengers up front to start passing out these plastic tarps and to start covering ourselves in it. One of the English ladies on the boat says, "Well this is a bit frightening." We have no idea what is about to happen. All of the sudden we go under a bridge and enter the third lake and into hurricane force winds. It starts whipping thru us and thrashing water on top of us. There is a mixture of screams and laughter as everyone in the boat gets splashed and jostled around. Oh, that was so much fun! I can still feel the stinging in my cheeks from the icy water that smacked my face. We round the an island on the lake and then I see it. Ross Castle. Awesome view from the lake. Our captain drops us off on the dock and one side of me is soaked. Thankfully I was wearing quick dry hiking pants, but it was still cold! I run around taking photos of Ross Castle before our ride back our B&B arrives. By now it's only 4pm. Boo and I decide we still have lots of energy left in us so we drive down into Killarney National Park and hike up to see Torc Waterfalls. Afterwards, we drive back down to Muckross House( http://www.muckross-house.ie/), and hike the 1 mile up to the Abbey ruins. This was a nice walk along the lake that we just crossed by boat. It was very serene and peaceful. We hiked the mile back to our car and happened to catch a glimpse of a bride, groom, and their party taking photos in the park. Very romantic. We headed back to the B&B, showered/changed clothes, and headed out to Molly Darcy's for dinner and drinks. Our hobbit friend/bartender was there again, and we sat in his section up at the bar. After our long outdoor adventure day, we were glad to get a good meal and relax with some pints. Sleep came easily that night. We were sad to leave Killarney, but knew that we had more adventures ahead of us.

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