Sad to leave Killarney, but we are on our way to explore County Clare. We leave County Kerry behind us as we take a ferry from Tarbert and sail into County Clare at Kilmer. We hop back on the road and make our way to the Cliffs of Moher, along the way we discover the town called Lahinch. It has a perfect half moon beach that has at least 20 surfers, deck
ed out in full winter wetsuits, hoods, and booties. We pull into the beach parking, get out to spectate and stretch our legs a bit. Boo decides he wants a closer look, so he heads down to the beach. I'm good where I am, so I stay and take in the beach sights. All of the sudden I spot a horse and rider prance on to the beach. I guess he's going out for his morning exercise. I watch as he gallops down the length of the beach and back. Beautiful. Did I mention it's chilly out. It's got to be at least 40 degrees, and I'm in a wool sweater, scarf, gloves, and jacket, but as I look around, there are several families strolling about with their children. I stare in amazement at this one kid. Here is this 2 year old slurping away on an ice cream cone! and here I am, just a few degrees from teeth chattering. I don't know what it is. Must be my thin tropical blood, but what I wouldn't do for a piping hot chocolate right now. Boo comes back and we climb back into the car, turn the heat up, and drive the 7 kilometers to the Cliffs of Moher.
Cliffs of Moher, what can I say, but WOW! Just when I think I've seen all this little island country has to offer, I walk up and catch the spectacular, jaw dropping, Cliffs of Mo
her. Even though it was a bit, (who am I kidding, ALOT) foggy, it was one breathe taking sight. I can see why the Irish are lobbying for this place to be considered the 8th wonder of the world. This place is just that amazing. "The cliffs rise 394 ft above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag's Head, and reach their maximum height of 702 ft just north of O'Brien's Tower. The cliffs boast one of Ireland's most spectacular views. On a clear day the Aran Islands are visible in Galway Bay, as are the valleys and hills of Connemara. O'Brien's tower is a round stone tower at the approximate midpoint of the cliffs. It was built by Sir Cornelius O'Brien, a descendant of Ireland's High King Brian Boru, in 1835, as an observation tower for the hundreds of to
urists that frequented the cliffs even at that date."(Wikepedia) For anyone that watches Late Night T.V. and know who Conan O'Brien is, he did a bit where he actually came to the Cliffs of Moher, and to O'Brien tower to show everyone how windy it was. His hat flew off and he went chasing it. It was pretty funny. Anyways, this place is windy. We happened to show up just as it was starting to rain, so the freezing rain, and wind chill made for a quick visit. We did stop in the museum/gift shop to take a break from the wind and to dry out a bit. The museum/gift shop was built into the side of a grassy hill. Seriously, it looked like the Hobbit Shire from Lord of the Rings. We had a nice hot lunch at the cafe' above the gift shop. I had some hot veggy soup with brown bread and some hot tea. Boo had a sammie and a slice of carrot cake. After warming up a bit, we headed back out, we wanted to see the Buren before we checking into our B&B in Doolin.
Cliffs of Moher, what can I say, but WOW! Just when I think I've seen all this little island country has to offer, I walk up and catch the spectacular, jaw dropping, Cliffs of Mo
her. Even though it was a bit, (who am I kidding, ALOT) foggy, it was one breathe taking sight. I can see why the Irish are lobbying for this place to be considered the 8th wonder of the world. This place is just that amazing. "The cliffs rise 394 ft above the Atlantic Ocean at Hag's Head, and reach their maximum height of 702 ft just north of O'Brien's Tower. The cliffs boast one of Ireland's most spectacular views. On a clear day the Aran Islands are visible in Galway Bay, as are the valleys and hills of Connemara. O'Brien's tower is a round stone tower at the approximate midpoint of the cliffs. It was built by Sir Cornelius O'Brien, a descendant of Ireland's High King Brian Boru, in 1835, as an observation tower for the hundreds of to
urists that frequented the cliffs even at that date."(Wikepedia) For anyone that watches Late Night T.V. and know who Conan O'Brien is, he did a bit where he actually came to the Cliffs of Moher, and to O'Brien tower to show everyone how windy it was. His hat flew off and he went chasing it. It was pretty funny. Anyways, this place is windy. We happened to show up just as it was starting to rain, so the freezing rain, and wind chill made for a quick visit. We did stop in the museum/gift shop to take a break from the wind and to dry out a bit. The museum/gift shop was built into the side of a grassy hill. Seriously, it looked like the Hobbit Shire from Lord of the Rings. We had a nice hot lunch at the cafe' above the gift shop. I had some hot veggy soup with brown bread and some hot tea. Boo had a sammie and a slice of carrot cake. After warming up a bit, we headed back out, we wanted to see the Buren before we checking into our B&B in Doolin.The Burren "means 'great rock', is a karst landscape region(layers of soluable bedrock with some sinkholes and caves) in n
orthwest County Clare. It is one of the largest karst landscapes in Europe. The region measures approximately 250 square kilometres. The Burren is home to rare alpine plants, delicate wonders that grow in the thin soil and crevices. The survival of both alpine and Mediterranean plants in this unusual habitat continues to arouse debate and to delight the careful walker. Those interested in the ancient history of Ireland will find a wealth of material in the Burren - megalithic tombs, Celtic crosses, a ruined Cistercian Abbey and more than sixty wedge tombs." (Discover Ireland and wikepedia) This place looks like, what I would envision the surface of the moon to look like. In my guide book, I remember reading that when Oliver Cromwell came to Ireland to force the Irish to become Protestant, he sent one o
f his generals into the Burren to survey the land. The General came back and told him, "There isn't tree to hang a man, water to drown a man, nor soil to bury a man". And so the residents were spared from Cromwell's protestant crusade. Boo and I parked our rental and walked out to the Poulnabrone portal tomb, one of the world's best known and most visited dolmens. It looks like, and is sometimes called, the giants picnic table. "It literally means 'the hole of sorrows'. The capstone sits on two (6ft) high portal stones to create a chamber (30ft) of low cairn. Excavations showed that the site dates back to about 2500 BC." (wikepedia) Th
is tomb was built over 4,500 years ago! That's old! After staring at this tomb for a few minutes, trying to wrap my mind around how old it was, I turn around and see Boo has wandered off. Probably doing his own survey of the land. I remember reading in my guide book that there are all types of flowers that grow here, from the tropical purple orchids and ferns, to the high alpine blue Spring Gentian. All in the same area, same climate. I'm curious to see them, so I jaunt off on my own survey. I think it's to early for the flowers b/c I didn't catch a glimpse of any, but I did discover lots of ferns growing out of crevices. When the rain started to trickle down a little harder, we decided to go check into our B&B in Doolin.
We pull into Lane Lodge B&B around 4:30pm. The room is a bit small, but has a great view of the Cliffs of Moher from the window. Our host lets us know that at 5:30pm, Gus O'Connors pub will be ha
ving a traditional Irish music session, Trad for short. The next one will be at 9:30pm. I look over at Boo, we are both exhausted from a long day of travel and sight seeing, and were looking forward to a hot shower, warm food, and an early night. But, since we have not participated in any Trad sessions since we've been in Ireland. I suggest we catch the 5:30pm, then grab dinner. Boo looks at me wearily. I can tell he doesn't want to go, but then I mention we can just take a nap and catch the 9:30pm show, and Boo is like, "no, lets just go to the 5:30pm, b/c I can't promise that I will get up for the 9:30pm show." So we clean up (in the tiniest bathroom ever. Seriously, the sink was so small, we had to bend down to use it.) and head out.
orthwest County Clare. It is one of the largest karst landscapes in Europe. The region measures approximately 250 square kilometres. The Burren is home to rare alpine plants, delicate wonders that grow in the thin soil and crevices. The survival of both alpine and Mediterranean plants in this unusual habitat continues to arouse debate and to delight the careful walker. Those interested in the ancient history of Ireland will find a wealth of material in the Burren - megalithic tombs, Celtic crosses, a ruined Cistercian Abbey and more than sixty wedge tombs." (Discover Ireland and wikepedia) This place looks like, what I would envision the surface of the moon to look like. In my guide book, I remember reading that when Oliver Cromwell came to Ireland to force the Irish to become Protestant, he sent one o
f his generals into the Burren to survey the land. The General came back and told him, "There isn't tree to hang a man, water to drown a man, nor soil to bury a man". And so the residents were spared from Cromwell's protestant crusade. Boo and I parked our rental and walked out to the Poulnabrone portal tomb, one of the world's best known and most visited dolmens. It looks like, and is sometimes called, the giants picnic table. "It literally means 'the hole of sorrows'. The capstone sits on two (6ft) high portal stones to create a chamber (30ft) of low cairn. Excavations showed that the site dates back to about 2500 BC." (wikepedia) Th
is tomb was built over 4,500 years ago! That's old! After staring at this tomb for a few minutes, trying to wrap my mind around how old it was, I turn around and see Boo has wandered off. Probably doing his own survey of the land. I remember reading in my guide book that there are all types of flowers that grow here, from the tropical purple orchids and ferns, to the high alpine blue Spring Gentian. All in the same area, same climate. I'm curious to see them, so I jaunt off on my own survey. I think it's to early for the flowers b/c I didn't catch a glimpse of any, but I did discover lots of ferns growing out of crevices. When the rain started to trickle down a little harder, we decided to go check into our B&B in Doolin.We pull into Lane Lodge B&B around 4:30pm. The room is a bit small, but has a great view of the Cliffs of Moher from the window. Our host lets us know that at 5:30pm, Gus O'Connors pub will be ha
ving a traditional Irish music session, Trad for short. The next one will be at 9:30pm. I look over at Boo, we are both exhausted from a long day of travel and sight seeing, and were looking forward to a hot shower, warm food, and an early night. But, since we have not participated in any Trad sessions since we've been in Ireland. I suggest we catch the 5:30pm, then grab dinner. Boo looks at me wearily. I can tell he doesn't want to go, but then I mention we can just take a nap and catch the 9:30pm show, and Boo is like, "no, lets just go to the 5:30pm, b/c I can't promise that I will get up for the 9:30pm show." So we clean up (in the tiniest bathroom ever. Seriously, the sink was so small, we had to bend down to use it.) and head out.Luckily, the world famous Gus O'Connors Pub (http://www.gusoconnorsdoolin.com/) is literally around the corner from our B&B. (Yay for location!!) We walked in, and headed to the b
ar area for a couple of pints. Boo got his favorite Carlsberg, I got my favorite Harps and we grabbed a table. The pub started to fill up fast with locals and tourist alike. We met the couple next to us and found out they are from Asheville NC (wow... small world.) We ended up talking to them most of the night and found out he works for a micro-brewery that we will have to go and check out when we get home :) Around 6pm, the musicians start piling in and begin their session, right in front of our table! (Yay for location!) The music was so lively, it made you want to clap your hands and dance. There were people of all ages enjoying the fun, even children were running around and dancing. It was a bit weird b/c in the States, children aren't
allowed in bars, but here in Ireland, it's like a family outing. So I sort of felt guilty for drinking a beer in front these kids (but not guilty enough to stop me from getting another pint. hahha!) As for the music; At one point, there were 12 musicians playing all at once! Flutes, mandolins, accordions, violins, guitars, recorders, and some other instruments that I don't know the name of. It was so much fun! When I was at the bar ordering a couple more pints and the bartender told me that I got here on a lucky night. Usually there are only 2-3 musicians playing. I felt lucky just witnessing the Trad. The atmosphere was so jovial, the musicians were fascinating to watch, and the music took me back to the medieval times. I can't describe the feeling, it was just an overwhelming combination atmosphere, the music, and the people, that made this moment one of my favorite memories of Ireland. I can't wait to come back to Doolin. Well, four pints later around 9pm the session ended. Boo and I decided to grab dinner at the pub. I ordered the Guinness beef stew with brown bread and Boo gets a platter of fish and chips. The portions were HUGE! I walked out of that pub full as a tick! We decided to walk down to the harbor to help my aching belly. After a 1/2 mile, Boo got this overpowering need to relieve himself, (after 4 pints who could blame him). We are in the middle of n
owhere, it was pitch black out, and not a person/house/or car in sight. So he hopped over the stone retaining wall and handled his business. Normally, I do not condone this behavior, ever, but the following I'm blaming on the four pints of Harp I had. All of the sudden I blurted out a quote that I remembered reading from my guide book. "Hey, did you know you are peeing in the western most point of all of Europe?" (sound of crickets.... ) Then we bursted out laughing. Ireland really is the most, geographically, west country in all of Europe. (Thanks Rick Steves). Anyways, we walked back to our B&B and sat out on the picnic table, star gazing and chit chatting for a bit before deciding to call it a night. Great times in Doolin.
ar area for a couple of pints. Boo got his favorite Carlsberg, I got my favorite Harps and we grabbed a table. The pub started to fill up fast with locals and tourist alike. We met the couple next to us and found out they are from Asheville NC (wow... small world.) We ended up talking to them most of the night and found out he works for a micro-brewery that we will have to go and check out when we get home :) Around 6pm, the musicians start piling in and begin their session, right in front of our table! (Yay for location!) The music was so lively, it made you want to clap your hands and dance. There were people of all ages enjoying the fun, even children were running around and dancing. It was a bit weird b/c in the States, children aren't
allowed in bars, but here in Ireland, it's like a family outing. So I sort of felt guilty for drinking a beer in front these kids (but not guilty enough to stop me from getting another pint. hahha!) As for the music; At one point, there were 12 musicians playing all at once! Flutes, mandolins, accordions, violins, guitars, recorders, and some other instruments that I don't know the name of. It was so much fun! When I was at the bar ordering a couple more pints and the bartender told me that I got here on a lucky night. Usually there are only 2-3 musicians playing. I felt lucky just witnessing the Trad. The atmosphere was so jovial, the musicians were fascinating to watch, and the music took me back to the medieval times. I can't describe the feeling, it was just an overwhelming combination atmosphere, the music, and the people, that made this moment one of my favorite memories of Ireland. I can't wait to come back to Doolin. Well, four pints later around 9pm the session ended. Boo and I decided to grab dinner at the pub. I ordered the Guinness beef stew with brown bread and Boo gets a platter of fish and chips. The portions were HUGE! I walked out of that pub full as a tick! We decided to walk down to the harbor to help my aching belly. After a 1/2 mile, Boo got this overpowering need to relieve himself, (after 4 pints who could blame him). We are in the middle of n
owhere, it was pitch black out, and not a person/house/or car in sight. So he hopped over the stone retaining wall and handled his business. Normally, I do not condone this behavior, ever, but the following I'm blaming on the four pints of Harp I had. All of the sudden I blurted out a quote that I remembered reading from my guide book. "Hey, did you know you are peeing in the western most point of all of Europe?" (sound of crickets.... ) Then we bursted out laughing. Ireland really is the most, geographically, west country in all of Europe. (Thanks Rick Steves). Anyways, we walked back to our B&B and sat out on the picnic table, star gazing and chit chatting for a bit before deciding to call it a night. Great times in Doolin. 
Posts
No comments:
Post a Comment