Monday, December 28, 2009

Christmas in Jamaica (Part 1)

aaahhhh.... Christmas in Jamaica. When Boo wondered if we would ever have a white Christmas, I promised him we would. A white sandy beach Christmas! And that's what we did. (Living in the south has its advantages, but a white Christmas isn't always one of them. Rarely do we get snow.) We headed to the natural mystic island known as Jamaica.

The flight was pretty smooth. We left at 6am, had a quick 1 hour layover in ATL and were landing in Mobay (Montego Bay) by 11:30am. We hopped on the JUTA shuttle and were whisked away to Negril for our 10 day vacay. It's an hour and a half trip from Mobay to Negril, so we took in the sights and relaxed. I had forgotten how crazy the drivers were in Jamaica and glad that we hadn't rented a car this time. We had a Red Stripe beer and some jerk chicken when the driver stopped mid-way for a quick break at one of those little side of the road beer and jerk stands. Finally, we arrived in Negril and were the last passengers dropped off at our hotel. Boo and I had agreed to divide our stay in Jamaica with 3 days on the west end cliffs at Samsara Hotel and 7 days on 7 mile beach at the all inclusive Sandals Negril. You see, I'm the adventurous, mingle with the locals type, and Boo is the posh, pampered on the beach type. So we both got our way :)

We check into Samsara and were surprised that our room was upgraded to an oceanfront double balcony (yep, we had 2 balconies! a private one with a table and two chairs, and a larger one with a chaise lounge and chair.) We didn't do the all inclusive b/c I wanted to try some local food at a couple of places that we missed the last time we were in Negril (2 yrs ago.) After we settled in and changed clothes, we toured our little boutique resort and hopped into the hot tub for a bit. Boo wanted to walk to the little grocery store to load up for some bottled water and snacks, so after the soak, off we went on our first adventure. We headed to LM grocery, which was probably a 1/4 mile up the road, and by the time we got there, we were "greeted" by at least 5 different hustlers trying to sell us something. So beware, if you go to Jamaica, you will get approached by the local hustlers trying to make some $$. But in their defense, they are some of the friendliest people you will ever come across. We just smiled, listened a bit, browsed their jewelry/wood carvings/paintings and politely said no thanks. Don't ever say, "maybe later" or "next time" cause they will remember you and later or the next time they see you, they will remind you that you said you would see them later. Too funny, and yes, we learned that lesson the hard way. hahaha! GOT to love them. It's part of the whole entire Jamaican experience for me. To mingle with the locals, talk and get to know them, even out hustle the hustlers. Boo doesn't share my sentiment. Oh well.... I still love the interaction.

LM grocery is basically an overcrowded convenience store. They squeeze in so many products in a tiny space. After buying 2 one liter bottles of water, some oreo cookies (for guess who), a bag of cheese puffs in honor of our last stay in Jamaica (inside joke) and a comb, cause I forgot mine, we walked back to our room and changed up for dinner. Now, if you've never walked in Negril's west end cliff's, just beware that the road is a bit narrow, there is no side walk, they drive really fast and on the wrong side of the road. In retrospect, walking was probably not the smartest thing to do. But I'm cheap and didn't want to spring for a cab that would of cost $500 Jamaican, roughly $2-$3 bucks. Besides, I wanted to SEE the west end cliffs. As we walked the mile to 3 Dives Jerk, I saw are so many little road side shacks that look so charming and inviting. I just want to stop at all of them! Boo probably thought they look dilapidated, unsafe, and sketchy, but he indulged me. As we pass by, we notice a stream of smoke coming from behind this fence and no one at a make shift table of jewelry and small wooden carvings. As we get almost up to it, a blood shot, small eyed, dread locked Jamaican by the name of Charlie peers around the fence with his joint still in hand. He had the biggest smile ever and invites us to look at his wares. Even though we didn't buy anything, he spent a few minutes talking to us about his life. I thought it was pretty neat. We move on down and finally get to 3 dives Jerk. Looks like we are the first and only ones there. We ordered up a platter of jerk chicken, rice and peas (red beans and rice) calaloo, and a red stripe to wash it all down. We find a seat outdoors and enjoy the view of the sea. After a few minutes, a random car pulls up with 4 guys, whom we later learn are from Canada, and a Jamaican driver. The driver stops by our table and starts up a conversation, at first it was kind of nice, but then he starts offering us all kinds of illegal substances and we have to turn him away, several times. It was probably the most awkward moment of the trip. Normally, the locals are pretty good about not hounding you as soon as you say no. Anyways, our food finally arrives and Boo and I dig in. After dinner, we notice it's starting to get dark, and with no side walks in the west end, we decide to head back to our resort and call it a night. It's been a long day.

The next day we made plans to walk 3 miles down to the light house. We wake up around 9am, get dressed and head to Just Natural for breakfast. It's one of the cutest places I've ever been too. Once you walk off from the street, your transported into a lush tropical garden. Most of the tables are outdoors and hidden on little patios. I order french toast with a glass of fresh passion fruit juice and Boo get's the Jamaican breakfast with some freshly squeezed orange juice. It was really good. We say goodbye to Teresa, the owner and chef, and head back out onto the road. We pass by lots of little shacks stands and pass The Rockhouse hotel. This is one of my favorite little boutique hotels from our last visit. As we walk by, I smile reminiscing about the amazing dinner with the amazing view we had here 2 years ago. Yum, I can still taste the coconut shrimp. We continue on in the 89 degree heat with sweat dripping down my back, when we are greeted by a friendly dreadlocked Jamaican. He begs us to see his garden. I'm feeling a bit friendly myself, so I agree and drag Boo across the street. He starts telling us about all the different flowers he grows, he shows us the aloe plant he has and tells us how he uses the aloe as eye drops. He takes us over to the mint and herb section and tells us how eating naturally keeps his 45 year old body healthy. Then he proceeds to do a back flip right in front of us just to show how in shape he is. As we continue the tour, he tells us that he does all of this gardening with only one tool and pulls out a huge machete from the back of a bush. When I see this, all that runs through my head is that he is going to chop us up in bits and pieces and use us as fertilizer for his garden! I see Boo tense up a bit, then the guys asks me to point out my favorite flower and he goes over and pick a huge yellow hibiscus off a tree and hands it to me with a sprig of mint. He picks a stem of aloe for Boo and walks us back up to the road. (Now this is where we learn our lesson.) When he asks if we enjoyed the tour and we say yes and when he asks us if we enjoyed the plants he picked for us and we say yes again, he says in his sly Jamaican accented voice. "Well if you enjoyed what I provided you with today, please feel free to tip me what you think is was worth." Dang this hustle man was good. Boo and had enough for a cab ride back and that was all, so we couldn't tip him. He says it's ok and blesses us anyways. I felt so guilty for taking the flower and aloe and that's probably what he was banking on. (Note to self, don't fall for this hustle again.)

We keep on trudging along and come upon a little strip of colorful shacks selling all kinds of stuff. When we tell the locals where we came from and where we are walking too, all of them sound amazed that we actually are walking to the lighthouse instead of taking a cab. Hmmmm... wonder why... Anways, we say no to every stall and come up to the last stall. Well really not a stall at all, just two guys sitting in lawn chairs. All they do is hold up the biggest dried up branch of the illegal green plant I've ever seen. We politely say no, cross the street, and keep on moving. Man, these guys are bold! Wow. We continued on and find a perfect little picnic table with a stunning view of the blue Caribbean sea. I snap a picture of it and we walk a while more til we reach the lighthouse. Right outside is a small stand with a woman selling cold drinks. She tells us how to get to the fenced off lighthouse. We actually have to go through someones yard. After trespassing, we decide to take a cool down break underneath the cutest little bench under a tree. When we feel better, we attempt to walk up the lighthouse, but notice the doors are locked. Bummer, we walked all this way, got hustled, and the place is locked up. HA! We decide to just enjoy the cliff view and catch a glimpse of the posh hotel called The Caves that was right next door. After taking a taxi back to our hotel and we decided to have a late lunch at the resort. I'm so glad we didn't do all inclusive, lunch was nothing to write home about.

Since we brought our own snorkel and fins, we tried our hand at snorkeling. The best part of our resort is that being on the cliffs makes for some easy snorkeling right off the property. We battled the churning waters for a couple of hours and saw lots of interesting fish. We called it a night and just relaxed on our balconies and watched the sunset. We talked most of the night away. Which was awesome. Back at home we would of caught up on our DVR and sat in front of the TV all night long, but being on vacation means, not being tied down to our normal routine. I love how we got up late almost every day, breakfasted at 9:30am or 10am and went to bed way past mid night. In my real life that would never fly. I'm usually up by 6:30am and asleep by 10pm. We talked, joked, laughed, bonded, and relaxed. I remember telling Boo, with my dirty wal-mart feet from going barefoot most of the day, propped up on our second balcony couch, that we must look like the richest guest at the resort b/c we had two balconies. (Boo, we are New New. hahaha!) We laughed so hard b/c that's not true at all, but for some reason, they put us in the only room on the property with a huge double balcony. The silly things I come up with.

The next morning, we ventured out to cloudy skies. The weather made the Caribbean sea look scary, waves lapped over most of the resorts cliff and it was starting to rain. We took some photos, then retreated back into the room to pack up and head over to 7 mile beach for the rest of our stay in Jamaica. Boo got the taxi driver to cut his fare in 1/2 to take us over to Sandals, which was literally on the other end of Negril. So off we went....

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